For breaker bar which type of head is stronger?

Right looks stronger but regardless they have a great return policy.

The bar on the left will fit into a smaller spot

In my experience neither, the square drive will snap off before you split the swivel. But, per physics, I believe you'll find the one on the right to be the preferred choice.

https://preview.redd.it/nweeraq7s8og1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f4fa2a182526e05520630abe5170f0b9a4b92454

The real answer is the 3/4 drive one !

The one on the right lifted my entire Lexus Sc300 when trying to break the bolt on the harmonizer with a bump start. That thing weighed 3500 lbs (Edit to add context) This was a 2jz-ge with 225k miles and the factory water pump still so it had never been broke. They are uni ...

The one on the right. The ears on the handle of the one on the left can spread and break. The head on the right has much more robust ears and will handle more force.

I don’t have an answer to your question, but I just wanted to offer my condolences and sympathies for whatever you’re working on as you’re at harbor freight looking for “the strongest breaker bar you can find”

I owned a kobalt brand one that was similar to the one on the left. Broke it trying to get a lug nut off of my neighbor's Impala. Replaced it with that one on the right at harbor freight. It is soooo much better. Do yourself a favor and get the better one so you don't end up h...

People may know from the picture but it's all gonna come down to the size of the pin

Having used both. You will shear the 1/2 inch connector before you break anything else

Got it thank you so much

The one on the right is a brute, but sometimes the larger head makes access challenging if you’re working in a tight space.

one on the right

You can cheap out on some things from harbor freight but this ain’t one of them, at least to me. If you are having to break out a breaker bar and even out a pipe on it, you are going to want something stronger. Step up to their next quality tier. I’ve only broken one breaker...

Skip right over the 1/2" stuff and get 3/4" bars and sockets.

For a breaker I’d buy 1/2, it will be chunkier and can be scaled down to 3/8 or 1/4 when needed.

The one that doesn't say "Pittsburgh"

https://preview.redd.it/z25h735t4aog1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=14b0c5f01c0e36dc47b4d055825d80b5d8b9b016 I would say go with the right…

I broke the one on the left taking my lugs off my truck after some tech ugga dugged them to hell

Thank you I went ahead and bought the one you all sugggested thank you 🙏

The breaker bar on the left if it has the black handle that has Pittsburgh written in red that thing will take more than all the others just look at the screw size on the head, https://preview.redd.it/d061qb678bog1.jpeg?width=6144&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b2816bf6d...

People who say the right one because of "physics" are wrong. Physics dictates that the left one is stronger. Why? Because regardless what position the head is in, the force applied to the fulcrum remains a constant. The other head on the right, not so much. At a 90 degree an...

If you break a breaker bar, you should have been using a larger breaker bar.

Right side

Ive had the one on the right for over 13 years or so. Ive put a 5 put bar and hung off of it. still kickin, the trusty steed it is.

I've used the one on the left with a 2' cheater bar and it didn't break or bend. Just make sure the hex screw is tightened down or it could vibrate itself out like mine did

Black..

The weak point of both is the square drive. I broke both type of head. The head types doesn't matter the part that always break is the square, it top off in the socket. There's only 2 real way a breaker bar can be stronger, either better alloy, or the real answer, pick a bigge...

I have with the right head, it was pretty cheap. Had like a 1.5-2m extension on it to break loose crankshaft bolt on IS 200 that also later revealed had a green loctite on it. Breaker bar did bend a lot but it worked and didn't break still after years of use

I’ve broken them both. Good luck

I’ve snapped a few of the red tagged style on the left. I’ve only had 1 of the black label style on the right. And it’s still in use currently. Like others have already said. Style on the right is a stronger design than the one on the left

once you go black u never go back (unless u need red for smaller spots)

I have the one on the right and have used a floor jack handle on it as a cheater bar to break hub axle nuts loose.

Broke both… not the head that matters. But the strength of the square head that holds the socket. That’ll snap before anything else.

The one on the right

Ive had both and broke both.

Get the 3/4" drive with downsize adapters

Right hand is stronger and better designed. When they do break, the head can be unbolted and replaced.

I have both and have abused them horribly. The right is a bit stronger but heavier.

Whichever one was forged better. Unfortunately, there’s no way to tell by looking, buy both and let us know, you will find out when they snap. Hooray for a lifetime warranty!

Heat and an impact. Breaker bars are kinda junk in my opinion. My ratchets have warranty and I've snapped less ratchets than breaker bars if you cant fit an impact in there

The one on the right claims ANSI tested for what it’s worth

The ones on the left tend to shear at the ball. The ones on the right will sheet at the base of the head. Either way, if you give it too much beans it’ll break. But, I’d go with the one on the right. They have a great return policy anyway

Buy both... find out.

The one on the right says ANSI - must be the good one.

You have 90 days break them and get it done. Replace or return.

https://a.co/d/03chh6Ji I wonder if this would shear off at the same torque as the pivoting ones?

Always go with the thick boi, they may be harder to handle but thick bois will always please you

The head my ex gave me was the strongest

Literally speaking, the type of head that would be stronger would be the one on the right because there exists more material at the contact points to distribute pressure and resist breaking. Expanding a bit beyond your initial question, there are other factors at play here tha...

I have the one on the right. I snapped the anvil off working on a 290 trackhoe, the head still pivots and the bar wasn't bent. Had a 4 foot pipe over the handle when I did it. Just snapped the 1/2in anvil off. Took it up there and swapped me out no questions. The one on the le...

Hit the bolt/area with BiG NASTY first. That baby is a lifesaver! 💯

The pinned head is not the weakest point. The bolt is. The second-weakest point is the square drive.

I typically use the one of the left, but your mom’s head is the strongest.

Left look strong as the shear planes are further appart.

I would make the argument that it doesn't really matter for strength, considering you can get a new one for free if you snap it

Left one is great I did recently get a 3/4 ratchet with long handle been real handy on huge trailers and some rusty suspension. Snapon used on ebay 60 and handle then built a cheater. Been awesome

I had craftsman versions of the left one. I got great neck 38002 versions of the right one. I have not broken the great neck versions. Even bending them with a jack handle so much i wrapped the joint with a bathtowel to reduce flying shrapnel. It did not break. I have see...

I don’t know if you’re trying to remove a seized bolt, but I think the socket matters more than the breaker bar strength. Without using things like lubricant or heat, the bolt or nut will probably fail before the breaker bar does.

1" with a black hardened reducer is stronger if you are going for strength,they don't bend either.

The right one is stronger. I personally have broken the one on the left without using a pipe or any type of extension.

I have the left one. It's great for getting in pretty tight spaces

Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). Rremember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, pai...

The one on the right can take a surprisingly high amount of abuse. Trust me.

The one with the red tag

I said at harbor freight a while back comparing these two for a while and I ended up going with the red one based on reviews I had seen online as well as the slightly smaller head size on the red. Physics-wise, I don't know. IIRC the red one seemed to have a larger pin as well...

I’ve got a snap on one like the one on the left that’s 50 years old and still fine, so unless you’re using it for something you should use a 3/4 drive it’s irrelevant

Ensure the handle aligns with the bolt threads whenever possible. When the threads and handle are not on the same plane, it creates a moment arm that can cause the socket to slip off the nut or bolt head and round the lugs. Stubby sockets are close to 90 degrees, but when usin...

More material on the tool = more torque that can be applied to a bolt or nut. The connection shapes don't really matter as much except for material physics.

Ive had the one on the left for 8 years now, it's never let me down.

I got the left one on marketplace lol. Slides under my air suspension rack real snug so I’m happy. A mechanic friend has the right one and it wouldn’t fit where I needed it to get for a control arm but mine just barely fit Edit: actually mines an old craftsman but same style...

Hard to know, because the steel could be different between the two, right one looks beefier, but could be made from Chinesium which is more noodle like steel. Left one has more durable chrome for when you store it in your leaky trunk. What’s the cost difference? Buy both, take...

I have the 25" (right one) and haven't broken it even when using a steel cheater pipe on axle nuts. So I think it's strong enough regardless

As someone who has, uses, bitches about, but will never replace the one on the right: Either one's handle will bend into a pretzel before you get enough torque to snap the 1/2" drive. That said, I'm never replacing my wet-noodle-bar. I've had the Icon in my hands at the Hobo...

I broke the left one already. The right one is still holding up. We have a 4 foot pipe hammered onto it for extra leverage. I've seen it really flex, but it's still holding up

Technically the one on the right is the stronger design. It takes more space to fit into certain areas and there's no padded handle though. But beetween those two, it's gonna come down the forging, and pin size but I'd still take the one on the right. I actually have that on...

If space isn't a constraint, the cheap $22 3/4" drive ratchet with the $8 3/4" drive to 1/2" socket adapter. It's proven indestructible, even w/a 5 foot long cheater pipe. [https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-drive-18-in-ratchet-68110.html](https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in...

I have both. I broke the one on the right loosening a crank bolt. But as others have mentioned, the return policy is great. I took it in and walked out with a new one, no cost, in minutes.

Had one a few years ago...too much flex but im sure they've fixed that issue

I would say the one on the right, which I have, has more meat attached to the socket bit. Ive been using that one for almost 4 years, and it's a little looser but has held up.

How the fuck do you use a 25 foot breaker bar? /s

The Pittsburgh one =D

Ive only ever used the type on the left and havent broke a breaker bar yet… until I post this.

I snapped the left one off on a bolt, went back and got the right one and it did the job & more no issues.

Same

It doesn't matter. It will break at the square drive every time, in my experience. I'd probably still go with the right one, though.

I don't know about the left one but the right one, the 25" Pittsburgh I have had at least 6 years and use it on my tires and suspension constantly. Last weekend I was taking an engine mount out and it was stubborn...not after using the 25" breaker. I love it, its ridiculous ...

The one on the right is stronger. Less flex. Left is more compact though.

The right one has limit of 200lbs. LMAO.

Not it that brand, but I bought the righthand style because I thought if the worst happens, I would be able to have a go at fixing it. But I have given it a hiding and it is still fine

The one on the right is the stronger design. Plus the ANSI rating should indicate it meets their specifications. Like others said, the left is likely better for tight areas.

I used the right one to remove stuck on axle nut. Surprised it survived with a cheater bar and was bending like a bow haha.

I was about to say either one has a lifetime warranty bring it in if it breaks they fix you up with a new one

Couple days ago I used one like on the right to torque lugnuts to 500 ft lbs. I'd say that one.

Pick one lol “lifetime warranty”

Buy both couple them together and send it, return the broken one.

Get a Icon

They’re both harbor freight chinesium. Never know which part of the pot you’re getting.

neither, don't waste your money on cheap Chinese crap

Both half inch drive so likely rated the same and in most instances smaller is actually better in the case of mechanical access

You check the Farm Project.

I’ve had the one on the right for over a decade and had several feet of pipe on it. It’s good.

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZP9dqxfxwotyq-iYWZH/

right one strong, the left one’s sides usually snap off when i put them under high load

I like the left style. They fit more places and I haven't hurt mine in 10 years.

I have both. The left side design is my half bar. I use it for smaller things. But my big jim (3ft bar) has the right side design, and that thing can torque a bulls nuts.

I'm actually learning this in my class. Still learning, but the one with more cross-sectional area can have less stress on the member. Stress is force over area. Increase area less stress. The pin connection on the right is thicker so it can handle a bigger load due to the res...

I have only broke one breaker bar and it was a harbor freight one the same one on the left but the one on the right can’t fit a lot of places

I've had the one on the ruby for 15ish years. I've put it thrift more hell than it ever should have been and it's still kicking.

Whicever one has a bigger pin to hold everything together

The one in the farm shop is the left side style. It was bought in the 90's

If you’re breaking a 25 inch breaker bar you got bigger problems than which one you decided to buy.

The biggest one

Neither of those. Don't buy Chinese steel, you'll sheering off the head and break a knuckle. Ask me how I know.

Um, ur momma.

How about some blonde head

You're not supposed to use your head. Just saying...😬

One is metric, the other imperial

I’ve broken both of those styles from them. My decades old USA Craftsman has held up with cheater pipes attached. The reason I tried theirs was my C didn’t have 3/4 drive head, and the adapters used on it broke too. So I tried HF’s 3/4 and it broke.

I'd check the reviews. Any that I bought that broke were 3/8" breakers that sheared at the drive square. So, even though the one on the right looks beefier, you might be surprised to find that the left one has a sturdier drive square (potentially). That being said I've never b...

Right is stronger. Left is narrower beneath the 1/2” square, it’s smaller in every way to fit into tighter spaces, but for most home use either one will suffice without shearing off in 1/2”. Amazon sells a 30” 1/2” breaker bar cheap, that’s 20% more leverage and I know it’s he...

Lets just say i broke the crank bolt loose on a j35 with the exact one on the right

Physics-wise they look identical. Same size pins at the same distance from center. I’d think the pins or the drive would be the points of failure.

Okay so breaking a stud that had a strip lug nut on it off of an e450 ambulance I broke a snap-on believe it was a 24-in breaker bar in ripped my hand open at the same time so yeah it's possible

Most breaker bars seem to sheer the square off rather than break at the joint. I chose the slimmer one for better access

If you break one of these it’s usually the drive square that’s sheared off which is the weak point and not the head itself.

My 44" snap-on bar is the same design/size as the one on the right and I've had it at points I was expecting the bar to snap and it's been fine, my friend has the same one and has been far more agricultural with it and he's only ever snapped the actual square drive.

Harbor freight has great head either way

https://preview.redd.it/pktqhlay4eog1.jpeg?width=2184&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4832689e0db4b8399d4a99e64414cb828336cdda That one.

Generally, if the drive end is black, it should be impact rated, and therefore as tough as you can get. Neither of those are.

I use the left side or red tagged one. It fits in tighter spaces.

I have Broke both lol, the larger head is stronger

Duralast tools from autozone also have lifetime warranty, and hold up better than Pittsburgh in my experience.

I’d read what the warranty entails.

Not sure, but it reminds me that I need to take mine back.

I've never noticed a difference. When they break, it's always right at the square. It's hard to check the composition of the metal in store..... Or anywhere really. You just find out that they are crap when they snap.

Sad that this Chinese junk is rated by their return policy. These are breaker bars. Meant to have a lot of torque put to them. If warranty is needed it means someone’s already gotten hurt.

Chinesium?? tough choice.

I think it's the one on the right, with the black label.

The 3/4" drive breaker will be stronger 😜 Real tools, not toys ..

The red bar is more versatile and I own one for several years.The other breaker bars have sockets attached I believe.

Whatever your putting that bar on will break before the head of the bar. Go with left; it's cheaper and will fit in more places.

I bought the $17 dollar version... If it broke I was 3 miles away.... It didn't break and I was taking off my Audi CV bolts....

Left. Right is a softer steel

I’ve broken both styles from multiple brands. I don’t think that there’s much difference in strength between the two types.

lmao both can be good both can be bad,,, you get what you pay for get one with a lifetime warranty

Your mom's got strong head. You should ask her.

Just bought the one on the right to break loose the “Jesus bolt” on my N20. Approx 600ft-lb, and it didn’t hesitate. But as everyone else said, the size of the head is what matters most.

Either will work. 90% It’s gonna break in the same spot on either bar. Which is the drive itself is gonna break inside the socket. Thats been my experience over the last decade with all types of brands

The one with the lifetime warranty

You're at HF, buy both twice and figure it out

My snap on and Mac breaker bars are set up like the one on the left so I am thinking the one on the left red tag. Haha

It all comes down to the shear strength of the shocket attachment. Everything else is null.

Travis

Your mom's

My dad has one like the one on the right and he has had it for over a decade